Obtain a brand new genuine Hyundai remote on eBay for $15 (the Elantra '01-04 and Santa Fe '01-03 use the same remote, so you can search on eBay for either), and program it yourself to work with your car. The information on how to do this is actually available on Hyundai's service website (http://www.hmaservice.com/webtech/), but it's not very detailed and assumes you know how to gain access to it.

The ETACS unit, which controls the alarm, is bolted to the dash chassis
and is located immediately behind the climate control cluster, offset a
little to the left. You need to gain access to this unit to code a new
remote. Technically, you are not coding the remote; what you are doing is re-programming the ETACS module to remember and accept the
secret code transmitted by the remote.

Note: The ETACS unit is designed to remember and accept up to two
remote codes. If you wish to add a third remote, there is no other option but to have the dealer program the third remote to utilize the same code from one of your other two remotes (a process called code-saving). The dealer has a Hyundai-specific device for doing this.

Applicable model years: '01-'03 Elantra with remote keyless entry. 2004-06 models need a Scan Tool to be reprogrammed (at the dealer).

Difficulty level: Easy

Tools required: Phillips head screwdriver, jeweler's screwdriver (or
similar small tool), razor blade, flashlight.

1) Remove the dash fascia by first removing four phillips head screws:
two are located behind the ash tray (remove ash tray first), and the other two are located in front of, and above the gauge cluster. Next, gently pry the facia out, starting from the bottom by the ash tray. There are multiple plastic tabs molded into the fascia holding it snugly in place, and there will be some resistance. Keep nudging gently, and if one section does not want to unseat, try another section and eventually the entire piece will unseat. After you ease it out a bit, you will have to remove the harness connectors to the switches attached to the rear of the fascia. Finally, with the steering column adjusted to it's the lowest position, nudge the fascia up and out from between the dash and the steering wheel. It will rub slightly against the steering wheel when doing this.

2) Remove the four screws securing the climate control cluster, pull it
forward, and remove the wiring harness.

3) Using a flashlight, (and cramming your head into the dash opening
created by removing the climate control cluster), find the sticker that
marks the location of the set switch on the ETACS unit. It is on the right side of the ETACS unit, below the antenna input (the antenna can be unplugged -- it utilizes the same type connecter as the AM/FM antenna). Note the positions on the sticker for "Off" and "Set". By default, the switch is in the "Off" position (facing up), which is the normal operating position. The switch is recessed, and you will not be able to feel it with your finger because there is a small piece of tape covering the recessed slider switch. Remove the tape with a razor blade or by picking at it with your fingernail.

4) Once the tape is removed, use a jeweler's screwdriver or other similar small tool to insert into the recession and slide the switch into the "Set" position. You should feel the "click" of it sliding to the "Set" position. (If you unplugged the antenna from the ETACS unit in an attempt to find the sticker, the antenna must be plugged into the ETACS unit at this point and the car's battery must be connected). You are now ready to code the remote. NOTE: When you code the new remote, you MUST re-code your old one at the same time or the old one will no longer work. To code the remote, press either the lock OR the unlock button of the first remote once. Do the same thing for the second remote. Try to do the second remote within two seconds of the first one. Slide the switch back to the "Off" position (down). Verify that both remotes function properly. If they do not, set the switch to the "Set" position again and repeat the procedure. If you continually run into problems, try coding only one remote and verify that coding only one remote works. I have heard on some of the forums that the second remote has to be pressed within a second of the first and that it may take several attempts to be successful (i.e., there may be a narrow "window" of opportunity to capture the codes in the Set mode). I did not encounter this problem, and everything worked on the first try.

5) Reassemble the climate control cluster and dash fascia.

A friend of mine -- also from the NYC area -- swears by his Valentine 1, but he paid $400 for it, and I don't think it's that much better.

The BEL Vector 980 has since been superseded by the 985 (MSRP $339.95), and unlike the Escort or Valentine models, is heavily discounted by distributors.  See http://www.beltronics.com/ for their full model range. Don't waste your money on anything from Uniden, Whistler, or Cobra; they're not in the same league.  Plus, the (Rocky Mountain Radar) Phazer II you may have seen advertised in some of the auto mags, which purportedly makes your car invisible to radar and lidar, is an out-and-out scam; it's a second-rate detector, too.  Stick with BELtronics, Escort, or Valentine, and expect to pay a minimum street price of $200 for anything decent.

On cordless radar detectors

The cordless detectors, for whatever reasons, are historically less
sensitive than corded ones. If this has changed in the last few years, I'm
unaware of it. They do offer more convenience, mounting versatility, and
portability, though, and one doesn't need to occupy a power outlet that
could be used for another purpose.

On mounting it on the windshield

Although the most effective mounting is high on the windshield, I mount
mine with suction cups, low -- just above the wiper blade -- on the
driver's side, just left of the center console, with the coiled cord.
There's a channel on the underside of the ashtray that funnels the cord
over to the left, allowing it to thread up between the dashboard and the
console. It doesn't get in the way at all, nor does it block any
instrumentation or controls, and it's fairly inconspicuous.

As far as anyone seeing the display from behind, there are dim and dark
settings available simply by pressing a button.

See http://www.sounddomain.com/radars for some retailers and also
http://www.speedzones.com/ for comprehensive detector tests.

[Unless specifically noted, the above are subjective opinions of the contributor, and are not based on scientific tests or review. Not that I know of, anyway. Click here for the Motor Trend 2004 Radar Detector Test & Buyer's Guide -- Webmaster]